Designing and Characterizing a Multipurpose Facial Scrub Infused with Chrysopogon zizanioides, Prunus dulcis and Santalum album

Payal N. Vaja¹*, Chetan H. Borkhataria², Hiral S. Popaniya³, Chintankumar J. Tank⁴

¹Assistant Professor, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

²Assistant Professor, Department of Pharmaceutics,

B.K. Mody Government Pharmacy College, Rajkot (360003) Gujarat, India.

³Assistant Professor, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

⁴Professor, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

*Corresponding Author E-mail: payalvaja55@gmail.com, chetanborkhataria@gmail.com, hpopaniya@gmail.com, chintankumartank@gmail.com

ABSTRACT:

This study focuses on the design and characterization of a herbal scrub utilizing natural excipients for skincare applications. The primary objective was to develop a safe and effective product capable of addressing common skin issues such as wrinkles, acne, and excessive oil production. The scrub formulation incorporated a blend of carefully selected excipients, including aloevera, amla, coriander, liquorice, sandalwood, lemon peel powder, khus-khus, almond oil, rose petal extract, and black catechu. Various parameters, including physical appearance, viscosity, pH, spreadability, irritability, stability, and microbial assay, were systematically assessed to comprehensively evaluate the scrub. The results revealed that the scrub demonstrated outstanding cooling effects, skin lightening properties, and efficacy in preventing new pimples. It exhibited a pleasant odor, possessed a brown color, and proved non-irritating to the skin. The scrub's texture was smooth, facilitating easy spreading. In conclusion, the formulated herbal scrub emerged as a safe and efficacious exfoliating product, offering the benefits of glowing skin without any adverse effects. Overall, this research contributes valuable insights into the development of a skincare solution that combines natural ingredients for optimal effectiveness and user satisfaction.

KEYWORDS: Acne, Scrub, Herbal cosmetics, Skin, Formulation, Anti-aging.

INTRODUCTION:

Cosmetics:

The term "cosmetics" finds its origin in the Greek term "kosmeticos," meaning to embellish. Over time, it has come to encompass any substance utilized to enhance or improve one's appearance. The impulse to adorn the body and attain beauty dates back to ancient tribal societies. In historical contexts, both men and women demonstrated a shared desire to enhance their attractiveness. Men utilized various materials such as animal parts and vegetable leaves, while women adorned themselves with colored stones or flowers around their necks and wrists¹.

Skin care products play a pivotal role in bolstering people's confidence. Although there was a longstanding perception that women were the primary consumers of skincare products, it is now recognized that men are equally invested in their appearance. Recognizing the inherent differences in the texture of men's rougher skin compared to women's, cosmeceutical companies tailor their products to meet the specific needs of diverse skin types^2-3. In the contemporary landscape, herbal cosmetics are experiencing a surge in demand due to their ability to nourish the skin comprehensively without eliciting adverse side effects. As both men and women increasingly prioritize skincare, the industry continues to evolve to address the unique requirements of different skin textures and preferences.

Overview of scrub:

Various factors contribute to the dullness and lifelessness of the skin, and the effective use of scrubs proves instrumental in addressing these issues. There are two main types of scrubs applied to the skin: body scrub and facial scrub. The primary distinction lies in the proportions of sugar and oil incorporated into each. Facial scrubs typically contain higher oil content, rendering them less abrasive while effectively exfoliating the skin. Scrubs, regardless of skin type, can be a beneficial treatment. The choice of essential oil used as an excipients in the scrub varies based on the specific skin type, with three main categories: dry skin, oily skin, and sensitive skin⁴.

Individuals with dry skin should opt for a facial scrub containing moisturizing and hydrating excipients. For those with sensitive skin, a gentler scrub is recommended. Individuals with oily skin benefit from exfoliating scrubs that not only prevent pimples, dullness, and breakouts but also help control excess oiliness⁵.

Facial scrubs serve the purpose of enhancing skin appearance and overall well-being. They can be utilized for various objectives, including whitening, softening, moisturizing, protecting, imparting a radiant glow, and cleansing⁶. The consistent use of scrubs reveals new skin cells, leaving the skin luminous and smoother by eliminating dead skin cells. Scrubs can be applied directly to the skin or using a small cosmetic pad. It is advisable to apply the scrub gel, which enhances oxygen supply to all skin surfaces and improves blood circulation, with a gentle massage^7-8.

Acne:

Acne vulgaris stands as an exceedingly prevalent skin disorder characterized by follicular hyperkeratinization, heightened sebum secretion, and colonization by organisms. Notably, acne is not an infectious condition; rather, it is commonly triggered by environmental pollutants, toxic chemicals, bacteria, and fungi. Treatment modalities for acne encompass several strategies, including the early-stage application of scrubs, the reduction of sebum production, the use of antibiotics to combat causative bacteria and fungi, and, on occasion, the incorporation of anti-inflammatory drugs⁹.

MATERIALS AND METHODS:

Materials:

Khus-Khus (Chrysopogon zizanioides) seeds were obtained as a gift sample from Attar Ayurveda (Jaipur, India). Amla (Phyllanthus emblica), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Aloe Vera Gel, Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Sandalwood (Santalum album), and Almond oil (Prunus dulcis) were locally sourced from Junagadh. Lemon peel powder (Citrus Limon) and Black Catechu (Senegalia catechu) were purchased from Attar Ayurveda (Jaipur, India), while Rose petal extract was procured from Petal Skincare Overseas in Delhi.

Strategy-1: Selection of Herbal Drugs/Raw Materials.

The herbal drugs and raw materials were chosen based on their beneficial properties for the skin. This selection comprised excipients such as aloevera, almond oil, khus-khus, amla, coriander, sandalwood, lemon peel powder, liquorice, rose petal extract, and black catechu^10-12.

Strategy-2: Collection of excipients.

Excipients essential for the formulation were gathered, encompassing ingredients such as aloevera, almond oil, khus-khus, amla, coriander, sandalwood, lemon peel powder, liquorice, rose petal extract, and black catechu^13-17.

Strategy-3: Formulation of polyherbal facial scrub.

The scrub base was prepared by blending around 10 grams of aloevera and 2mL of almond oil in a china dish. Subsequently, the scrub mixture was meticulously prepared by incorporating additional elements into the base. Specifically, 1gram of khus-khus, 0.5grams of amla, 1 gram of coriander, 3 grams of sandal wood, 1 gram of lemon peel powder, and 1.5grams of liquorice were added to the base mixture. The excipients were methodically mixed to ensure a consistent and uniform distribution throughout the scrub formulation.

For a delightful fragrance, an adequate amount of rose petal extract was incorporated into the mixture. To enhance the scrub's preservation, black catechu was included as a preservative¹⁸.

Table 1: Batches for Preparation of formulation

Batches	F1	F2	F3	F4	F5	F6	F7	F8	F9
Coriander seeds (Scrubbing agent)	1gm	1gm	1gm	1gm	1.2 gm	-	-	-	-
Coriander powder (Cooling effects)	-	-	-	-	-	-	1gm	1gm	1gm
Khus-Khus (Scrubbing agent)	-	-	-	-	-	1gm	1gm	1gm	1gm
Liquorice (Skin whitening)	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	1.5 gm	1.5 gm
Amla Powder (Anti- Acne)	-	0.5gm	0.5gm	0.5gm	0.5gm	0.5gm	0.5gm	0.5gm	0.5gm
Aloevera gel (Humectant)	10gm	10gm	10gm	10gm	10gm	10gm	10gm	10gm	10gm
Sandalwood Powder (Sun protective, For dry skin)	3gm	3gm	3gm	3gm	3gm	3gm	3gm	3gm	3gm
Lemon peel powder (Treats blemishes, Aroma)	1gm	1gm	1gm	1gm	1gm	1gm	1gm	1gm	1gm
Turmeric	0.5gm	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-
Almond oil (Emollient)	4mL	4mL	5mL	2mL	2mL	2mL	2mL	2mL	2mL
Rose petal extract (Nutritive, Aroma)	QS	QS	QS	QS	QS	QS	QS	QS	QS
Black Catechu (Preservative)	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	0.3 gm

Among the different batches tested, F9 demonstrated the most favorable results compared to the others and can be deemed the final batch. Here is a summary of observations and improvements made in each batch:

F1 Batch: Turmeric used in the formulation caused a yellowish hue on the skin after rinsing off the scrub. F2 Batch: Turmeric was replaced with amla powder, an effective anti-acne ingredient, to address the issue of skin discoloration. F3 Batch: Excessive almond oil led to an overly moisturizing effect, surpassing the intended level. F4 Batch: Adjustments in the quantity of almond oil achieved the desired emollient effect perfectly, eliminating any post-wash stickiness. F5 Batch: Coriander seeds in the formulation resulted in an unappealing visual aspect. F6 Batch: The inclusion of khus-khus as a scrubbing agent enhanced the visual appeal, providing a pleasant appearance. F7 Batch: Coriander powder added exceptional cooling properties to the formulation. F8 Batch: Liquorice was incorporated as a skin-lightening agent. F9 Batch: Black catechu was included as a preservative, yielding the best results among all tested batches. Based on these findings, the F9 batch serves as the final formulation, incorporating necessary improvements to achieve the desired outcomes.

Strategy-4: Evaluation of Polyherbal Facial Scrub:

The formulated scrub underwent evaluation using various parameters to assess its quality and efficacy. These parameters included physical appearance, viscosity, pH, spreadability, irritability, microbial assay, and stability studies. The scrub underwent a comprehensive assessment, focusing on its cooling effects, skin-lightening properties, and ability to prevent new pimples. Additional tests, likely encompassing sensory characteristics like odor and color, may have been conducted. The results obtained from this evaluation were thoroughly analyzed and interpreted. The outlined steps provide an overview of the material and method strategy employed in designing and characterizing the polyherbal facial scrub. However, for a more detailed understanding of the research methodology, specific techniques, measurements, and instruments used would be elaborated upon in a comprehensive research methodology section. It's important to note that different batches of preparation, as mentioned in Figure No. 1, likely played a crucial role in these assessments^19-35.

F1 Batch                                          F2 Batch

F3 Batch                                        F4 Batch

F5 Batch                                          F6 Batch

F7 Batch                                          F8 Batch

F9 Batch (Final Batch)

Figure 1: Different Batches of Formulation

The evaluation of the prepared polyherbal scrub encompassed various parameters:

Appearance:

The polyherbal scrub was assessed for its odor and color¹⁹.

Consistency:

The consistency of the prepared polyherbal scrub was evaluated^20-21.

Grittiness:

Microscopic evaluation was conducted to scrutinize the formulation for the presence of any appreciable particulate matter. This assessment ensured that the preparation met the requirements of being free from particulate matter and grittiness, as desired for any topical formulation^22-23.

Determination of pH:

The pH of the polyherbal scrub was determined using a digital pH meter. One gram of the scrub was dissolved in 25mL of distilled water, and the electrode was immersed into the scrub formulation until a constant reading was obtained and noted. This method provided an accurate determination of the pH of the scrub^24-25.

Extrudability study:

To assess extrudability, a closed collapsible tube containing the formulation was firmly pressed at the crimped end. Upon removing the cap, the formulation extruded until the pressure dissipated. The weight in grams required to extrude a 0.5cm ribbon of the formulation in 10 seconds was determined^26-27.

Determination of spreadability:

The spreadability of the polyherbal scrub was determined using a spreadability testing apparatus. This apparatus comprises a wooden block with a pulley at one end. In this method, the spreadability was measured based on the 'slip' and 'drag' exerted on the ground slide as the scrub was sandwiched between the slides. A load of 1kg was applied to ensure the polyherbal scrub spread without the formation of air bubbles. Excess scrub was carefully removed. Subsequently, a standard weight of 20 kg was placed on the pulley using a string attached to a hook. The time required for the weight to move till the end was noted, along with the length of the spread polyherbal scrub. Spreadability was then calculated using the following formula^24,28-29.

S = M*L/T

Where,

S  =  Spreadability

L  =  Length moved by glass slide.

M =  Weight in the pan.

T = Time taken to separate the slide completely from each other.

Viscosity measurement:

The viscosity of the polyherbal scrub was determined at 25°C using the Brook field viscometer apparatus, specifically the DV2T model. Five grams of the polyherbal scrub were placed in the sample holder of the viscometer and allowed to settle for 5 minutes. The viscosity was measured at a rotating speed of 50rpm at room temperature (25–27°C)^30-32.

Irritability testing:

For irritability testing, a small amount of the formulated polyherbal facial scrub was evenly applied to the test area. The application covered the entire test area, and the scrub was left undisturbed for a designated period, typically 24hours. During this period, the test area was observed for any signs of irritation or allergic reactions, such as redness, itching, swelling, or rash. The severity and duration of any observed reactions were carefully noted. After the designated test period, a thorough examination of the test area was conducted, and any observed reactions were documented^24,33.

Washability testing:

A small quantity of the polyherbal scrub was applied to the skin and subsequently washed off with water. This test assessed the ease with which the scrub could be washed off the skin^34-35.

Microbial assay:

Preparation of Agar plate:

Weigh approximately 1.3grams of agar agar and 2.0 grams of bacteriological-grade Nutrient agar (N. agar). Dissolve agar agar and N. agar in 100mL of sterile water. Heat the mixture on a water bath until bubbles start to form. Pour the agar mixture into clean and sterile petri plates. Allow the agar to solidify and form a gel³⁶.

Sample preparation:

Solution A: Take 1gram of the product and dissolve it in 9mL of sterile water to create a 1% solution.

Solution B: Collect sebum or pus from an individual's skin using a clean glass slide. Transfer the sebum or pus onto a clean brush and add it to a test tube containing 10 mL of sterile water.

Solution C: Obtain dead skin and add it to a test tube containing 10mL of sterile water³⁶.

Procedure:

Using a sterile inoculating loop, streak plate-1 with solution B by spreading the solution evenly across the agar surface. Streak plate-1 again with solution A, ensuring even distribution. Incubate plate-1 in an incubator at 37±1°C for 24-48hours. Streak plate-2 with solution C by spreading the solution evenly across the agar surface. Streak plate-2 again with solution A, ensuring even distribution. Incubate plate-2 in an incubator at 37±1°C for 24-48 hours. After the incubation period, examine both plates for the presence of microbial growth. Assess the number and type of colonies that have developed³⁶.

Stability studies:

Stability studies were conducted according to ICH guidelines. Three alternative storage conditions were utilized for a month, monitoring physical stability daily. The sample remained consistent at room temperature (25°C±2°C), high-temperature storage (40°±2°C), and in a cool environment (2-3°C) without any changes in characteristics^37-38.

RESULT AND DISCUSSION:

Appearance:

The polyherbal scrub exhibited a yellowish-brown color with a characteristic sweet odor. In terms of physical state, it was observed to be semi-solid.

Consistency:

The consistency of the polyherbal scrub was visually assessed, revealing a semi-solid texture.

Grittiness:

A few gritty particles were detected in the polyherbal scrub upon examination.

Determination of pH:

The pH of the prepared scrub was determined using a digital pH meter, and the recorded pH value was 5.8.

Extrudability study:

The average extrusion pressure of the polyherbal scrub was reported, and it was found to be 15.1g/cm².

Determination of spreadability:

The spreadability of the polyherbal scrub was measured and reported as 4.2gm.cm/sec.

Viscosity test:

The viscosity of the polyherbal scrub was determined to be 1040 centipoise.

Irritability:

A small amount of the polyherbal scrub was applied to the skin and left for 24hours, and no irritant reactions were observed.

Washability:

Upon application of a small quantity of the polyherbal scrub on the skin and subsequent washing with water, it was found to be easily washable.

Evaluations of polyherbal facial scrub was mentioned in table no 2.

Table 2: Evaluations of polyherbal facial scrub

Sr. No.	Parameters	Observations
1.	Colour	Yellowish brown colour
2.	Odor	Characteristic, Sweet odour
3.	State	Semisolid
4.	Consistency	Good
5.	pH	5.8
6.	Viscosity	1040 centipose
7	Spredability	4.2  gm.cm/sec
8	Washability	Easily washable
9	Grittiness	Small gritty particles
10	Irritancy	Non irritant
11	Extrudability	15.1 g/cm^2

Microbial assay:

The results from the microbial assay indicate that both Plate-1 and Plate-2 did not show any microbial growth after 24 hours and 48 hours. This observation suggests that within the given time frame, there was no visible contamination or growth of microorganisms on these plates. The absence of microbial growth is a positive outcome, indicating the effectiveness of the polyherbal scrub in maintaining microbiological integrity, as depicted in Figure No. 2.

Plate-1

Plate -2

Figure 2: Observations in Plate 1& 2 after 48 Hours (Microbial Assay)

Stability studies:

The stability studies conducted on the polyherbal scrub revealed consistent results over a one-month period under various storage conditions. The sample maintained stability at room temperature (25°C±2°C), high-temperature storage (40°C±2°C), and cool storage (2-8°C). No changes in characteristics such as appearance, pH, viscosity, spreadability, etc., were observed during the stability studies. The detailed findings of the stability studies, including observations for appearance, pH, viscosity, spreadability, and other relevant parameters, are documented in Table No. 3. These results suggest that the formulation is robust and can endure different storage conditions without significant alterations in its physical and chemical properties.

Table 3: Stability Studies of polyherbal scrub at 25^oC, 40^oC, 2^oC to 8ºC for 1 month

Days	At Room temperature (At 25ºC)	At 40ºC	In Cold storage (In Refrigerator at 2ºC to 8ºC)
Day-1	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-2	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-3	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-4	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-5	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-6	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-7	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-8	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-9	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-10	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-11	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-12	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-13	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-14	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-15	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-16	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-17	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-18	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-19	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-20	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-21	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-22	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-23	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-24	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-25	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-26	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-27	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-28	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-29	Stable	Stable	Stable
Day-30	Stable	Stable	Stable

CONCLUSION:

The notable prevalence of herbal cosmetics in India, with over 70% of the population favoring them for skincare, underscores the increasing demand for natural and effective personal care options. Given the significance of radiant skin in enhancing one's appearance, the formulation of herbal cosmetics has gained traction to address diverse skin concerns and beautification needs. In this research, a comprehensive evaluation of various herbs culminated in the formulation of a facial scrub. Recognizing the skin as the body's outermost organ exposed to a pro-oxidative environment comprising UV radiation, drugs, and air pollutants, the inclusion of Amla was strategic. Renowned for its anti-acne and antioxidant properties, Amla serves as a protective shield against these environmental factors. Khus-Khus, incorporated as the scrubbing agent, enhances the formulation's exfoliating prowess. Additionally, the infusion of Sandalwood and Amla aims to elevate the scrub's efficacy, with Sandalwood contributing anti-aging benefits and Amla imparting its anti-acne properties. Evaluation across various parameters has demonstrated the prepared scrub's commendable application on the skin, promoting skin health, and delivering a luminous effect. Crucially, the formulation has been verified as safe, devoid of any reported side effects. Overall, the crafted herbal facial scrub emerges as a beneficial, cost-effective solution that has successfully met all evaluation benchmarks. Its alignment with the escalating demand for herbal cosmetics in India positions it as a natural and appealing alternative in the realm of skincare.

CONFLICT OF INTEREST:

The authors have no conflicts of interest regarding this investigation.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

The authors express their sincere thanks to Principal, Teaching and non-teaching faculties of Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh, Gujarat, India for providing all facilities to conduct this work.

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38. Trilokchandran. B, Vijayakumar G, Thippareddy K S. Formulation and Evaluation of Cosmetic Cream from Cabbage Extract. Research Journal of Pharmacy and Technology.  Aug. 2019: 12(8): 3589-3594. doi: https://doi.org/10.5958/0974-360X.2019.00612.7

Received on 24.11.2023            Modified on 30.01.2024

Accepted on 02.03.2024           © RJPT All right reserved

Research J. Pharm. and Tech 2024; 17(8):3786-3792.

DOI: 10.52711/0974-360X.2024.00588