Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lipsticks

 

Nuha Rasheed¹*, Syed Abdul Rahman², Samreen Hafsa²

¹Assistant Professor, Department of Pharmaceutics, Nizam Institute of Pharmacy, Deshmukhi (V),

Pochampally (M), Behind Mount Opera, Yadadri Bhuvanagiri (Dist)-508284, Telangana, India.

²B. Pharmacy, Pharmacy Department, Nizam Institute of Pharmacy, Deshmukhi (V), Pochampally (M),

Behind Mount Opera, Yadadri Bhuvanagiri (Dist)-508284, Telangana, India.

 

ABSTRACT:

The safety and reliability of natural products have triggered the need to produce herbal-based products. The use of herbal cosmetics has become increasingly popular among present-day women. Synthetic coloring agents being used in cosmetics have been found to produce carcinogenic effects. The objective of the present study involved the preparation and evaluation of herbal lipsticks using color matter from natural sources such as carrot, beetroot, turmeric, tomatoes, pomegranate, and cocoa. Different natural ingredients such as beeswax, carnauba wax, vanilla essence, castor oil, white soft paraffin, strawberry essence, vitamin E, lemon juice was used to formulate herbal lipstick. Prepared herbal lipstick was evaluated for different evaluation tests such as color, texture, pH, melting point, breaking point, surface anomalies, aging, and perfume stability.

 

 

 

INTRODUCTION:

The word cosmetics is defined as ‘substances of diverse origin, scientifically compounded and used to cleanse, alleviate skin troubles, cover up imperfections, beautify, and is used in this paper in a wider sense to include oral hygiene as well. Cosmetics are the substance used to enhance the appearance of the human body. Cosmetics include skincare creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail toenail polish, eye, and facial makeup, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays, deodorants, baby products, bubble bath, and many more products. These products are in great demand in developing and developed countries¹. Herbal cosmetics have a growing demand worldwide and are an invaluable gift of nature. There is a wide range of herbal products to satisfy the beauty regime. The drawback of the personal healthcare system is the side effects of synthetic preparation. Hence, people are opting for herbal medicine.

 

 

 

Human beings have been using herbs for different purpose like food, medicine and beautification. With the advancement of science and technology, use of natural products including plant-based produce has been reduced except for food or vegetarians who use plants and plant-based products only. However, there is resurgence in the use of herbs both as drug and cosmetics⁴.

 

Coloring lips is an ancient practice that dates to the prehistoric period. In present days use of cosmetic products has increased, and choice of color shades, textures, luster have been changed and become more extensive. This can be observed from the fact that lipstick is being marketed in hundreds of shades of colors to satisfy the increasing demand. In recent times lipstick has been under the scanner of many health watchers. Lipsticks are often eaten away by the user, and hence are imperative that health regulators have a microscopic look at the ingredients that go into the lipstick. Due to various adverse effects of available synthetic preparation, the present work was conceived by us to formulate an herbal lipstick having minimal or no side effects, which will extensively use by the women of our communities with great surety and satisfaction^4-7. Lipsticks are the cosmetic product containing pigments, oils, waxes, and emollients that apply color, texture, and protection to the lipsticks. Many colors and types of lipsticks exist. As with most other types of makeup, lipsticks are typically but not exclusively worn by women. Some lipsticks are also used as lip balms, to add color along with hydration properties^8-9.

 

The herbs used in cosmetic preparation have varieties of properties like antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and antibacterial. These herbal products claim to have no side effects that are commonly seen with products containing synthetic agents. The literature in Ayurveda, especially CharakaSamitha, stated numerous medicinal plants^10-13. Among the popular functional natural ingredients, several antioxidants used in cosmetics are scientifically proven to offer additional benefits in supporting skin texture appearance and tone. The ideal characteristics of lipsticks are that it should be non-irritating and non-toxic, should be stable both physically and chemically, should be free from gritty particles, should maintain lip color for a more prolonged period after its application¹⁴.

 

AIM AND SCOPE OF PRESENT WORK:

The present work was designed on basis of different approaches of guided study on herbal lipstick. The list of ingredients was made. Then the literature review was done. The materials were collected and method of preparation was studied and the identification tests for coloring matter was performed of various herbal lipsticks were formulated. The prepared formulations were evaluated for various properties and results were tabulated.

 

MATERIALS AND METHOD:

Table 1: Instruments used

Name	Model
Weighing balance	Shimadzu Corporation Japan
PH meter	Elico
Electric water bath	Poly Science Ltd
Melting points apparatus	Esico

 

Table 2: Chemicals used

Name	Specification
Bees wax	SD Fine
Carnauba wax	SD Fine
White soft paraffin	SD Fine
Castor oil	SD Fine
Coconut oil	SD Fine
Almond oil	Dabur India
Oilve oil	Sengee Biochem
Essential oil	Grasee International
Rose essence	Jamson
Vanilla essence	Jamson
Strawberry essence	Jamson

 

METHOD OF EXTRACTION:

Lycopene extraction from tomatoes: 

1. Benzene Extraction Method:

We made the paste separately of tomato. In the laboratory 100 gm of paste is weigh in 250 ml beaker. Then warm the paste and add about 30 ml of warm (400°C) benzene to it. Stir well and decant the benzene layer. Again add 30 ml warm benzene, stir and decant the benzene. This has been done about 5 times. Then distil off benzene and we got residue of lycopene. Recystallized residue by ether and weighed. Repeat the steps with another sample of tomato and record the observation. Identification test of the isolated lycopene were performed using chemical tests and by microscopic study, identification of chemical structure was done using visible spectrophotometer.

 

2.  Methanol Extraction Method:

50 gm tomato paste was dehydrated by adding 65 ml of methanol. This mixture was immediately shaken vigorously to prevent the formulation of hard lumps. After 2 hr, the thick suspension was filtered; the dark red cake was shaken for another 15 min with 75 ml mixture of equal volume of methanol and carbon tetrachloride and separated by filtration. The carbon tetrachloride phase was evaporated and the residue was diluted with about 2 ml of benzene. Using a dropper, 1 ml of boiling methanol was added in portion, then crystal of crude lycopene were appeared immediately and the crystallization was completed by keeping the liquid at room temperature and ice bath, respectively, The crystals were washed 10 times using benzene and boiling methanol.

 

 

BEET ROOT EXTRACTION:

Beetroot:

Peel the beetroot and cut it into uniform-sized fine slices. Spread it over a butter paper, cover with a fine mesh and allow it to shade dry for a day. If there is any moisture left dry in it in an oven. Take the dried beetroot and grind it into a fine powder. Pass the powdered material through a fine sieve. Check for any grainy particles. Sieve it again if required. Weight the amount of powder and pack it.

 

 

POMEGRANATE EXTRACTION:

A sweet ripen red color pomegranate is taken and its seeds are removed. The seed are taken into mortar pestle then it juice is extracted by grinding the seed into the mortar pestle. The mixture was poured into a fine muslin cloth and was squeezed to separate the juice from the seeds. The juice was collected from the beaker and stored for further use.

 

 

CARROT JUICE EXCTRACTION:

Fresh carrots are taken and their upper layer is removed by the help of peeler. The peeled carrot is grated evenly then the mixture was poured into a fine muslin cloth and was squeezed to separate the juice from the seeds. The juice was collected from the beaker and stored for the further use.

 

Method of formulation of lipstick:

Formulation 1- method of preparation:

The herbal lipsticks were formulated as per general method of lipstick formulation. In this formulation beeswax and carnauba wax were melted in a beaker at 70°C on a water bath with decreasing order of their melting point. Similarly white soft paraffin and castor oil were taken in another beaker and melted at 70°c on a water bath in decreasing order of their melting point. The colored pigment was added to the oil phase until homogenous mixture was obtained. Then it was added to the wax phase at the same temperature. The mixture was cooled at 40°c and vanilla essence was added. The molten mixture was poured into lipstick moulds. Upon solidification it was separated from the moulds and fitted in the lipstick case.

 

 

 

Table: 3 Formulation 1 ingredients:

 

FORMULATION 2-METHOD OF PREPARATION:

The herbal lipstick was formulated as per general method of lipstick formulation. In this formulation carnauba wax is melted in a beaker at 70°c on water bath. Similarly almond oil was melted in a beaker at 70°c on a water bath. The coloring pigment and rose oil was added to the oil phase until homogenous mixture was obtained. Then it was added to the wax phase at the same temperature. The mixture was cooled to 40°c and strawberry essence was added. The molten mixture was poured into lipstick moulds. Upon solidification it was separated from the moulds and fitted in lipstick case.

 

Table: 4 Formulation 2 ingredients

 

FORMULATION 3-METHOD OF PREPARATION:

The herbal lipstick was formulated as per general method of lipstick formulation. In this formulation carnauba wax is melted in a beaker at 70°c on a water bath. Similarly almond oil, coconut oil, were taken in another beaker and melted at 70°c on a water bath in decreasing order of their melting point. The colored pigment turmeric was added to the oil phase until a homogenous mixture was obtained. Then it is added to the wax phase at the same temperature. The mixture was cooled to 40°c and lavender oil was added. The molten mixture was poured into lipstick moulds. Upon solidification it was separated from the moulds and fitted in the lipstick case.

 

Table: 5 Formulation 3 ingredients:

 

FORMULATION 4-METHOD OF PREPARATION:

The herbal lipstick was formulated as per general method of lipstick formulation. In this formulation bees wax was melted in a beaker at 70°c on a water bath. Similarly coconut oil, almond oil were melted at 70°c on a water bath in decreasing order of their melting point. The colored pigment (carrot juice) was added to the oil phase until a homogenous mixture was obtained. Then it was cooled to 40°c and 1-2 drops of essential oil was added. The molten mixture was poured into lipstick moulds. Upon solidification it was separated from the moulds and fitted in the lipstick case.

 

Table: 6 Formulation 4 ingredients:

 

FORMULATION 5-METHOD OF PREPARATION:

The herbal lipstick was formulated as per general method of lipstick formulation. In this formulation bees wax is melted in a beaker at 70°c on a water bath. Similarly coconut oil, Almond oil were taken in another beaker and melted at 70°c on a water bath in decreasing order of their melting point. The colored (cinnamon) pigment was added to the oil phase until a homogenous mixture was obtained. Then it was added to the wax phase at the same temperature. The mixture was cooled to 40°c and vanilla essence was added. The molten mixture was poured into lipstick moulds. Upon solidification it was separated from the moulds and fitted in the lipstick case.

 

Table: 7 Formulation 5 ingredients:

 

FORMULATION 6-METHOD OF PREPARATION:

The herbal lipstick was formulated as per general method of lipstick formulation. In this formulation bees wax is melted in a beaker at 70°c on a water bath. Similarly castor oil, coconut oil, olive oil were taken in another beaker and melted at 70°c on a water bath in decreasing order of their melting point. The colored pigment (beet root) was added to the oil phase until a homogenous mixture was obtained. Then it was added to the wax phase at the same temperature. The mixture was cooled to 40°c and vitamin e was added. The molten mixture was poured into lipstick moulds. Upon solidification it was separated from the moulds and fitted in lipstick case.

 

Table: 8 Formulation 6 ingredients:

 

 

FORMULATION 7-METHOD OF PREPARATION:

The herbal lipstick was formulated as per general method of lipstick formulation. In this formulation bees wax, coconut oil and olive oil in decreasing order of their melting point is melted on water bath at 70°c in a beaker. Similarly add coloring matter to castor oil in another beaker and heat till it dissolves completely. Mix both phases at same temperature. The mixture was cooled to 35°c and essences and vitamin E is added. The molten mixture was poured into the lipstick moulds. Upon solidification it was separated from the mould and fitted in the lipstick case.

Table: 9 Formulation 7 ingredients:

Ingredients	F1	F2	F3	F4
Bess wax	2gm	2gm	2gm	2gm
Coconut oil	3gm	3gm	3gm	3gm
Olive oil	2gm	2gm	2gm	2gm
Castor oil	2gm	2gm	2gm	2gm
Carrot juice	4gm	-	-	-
Coco powder	-	4gm	-	-
Pomegranate juice	-	-	4gm	-
Tomato juice	-	-	-	4gm
Vanilla essence	2gm	2gm	2gm	2gm
Strawberry essence	1gm	1gm	1gm	1gm
Vitamin E	4gm	4gm	-	-
Lemon juice	-	-	4gm	4gm

 

 

IDENTIFICATION TESTS FOR DIFFERENT COLOURED MATTERS:

IDENTIFICATION TEST  FOR CARROT JUICE:

To the extraction of carrot add phloroglucinol , adding conc Hcl (1:1) which gives pink colour, Presence of glycosides is confirmed.

 

 

IDENTIFICATION TEST FOR POMEGRANATE:

Test For Anthraquinones:

1.0ml of pomegranate extract was boiled with 2.0ml of 10.0% HCl solution for few min in water bath. It was filtered and allow to cool.

Equal volume of chloroform was added to filtrate. Few drops of 10.0%ammonia were added to mixture and heated.

A rose pink colour indicated anthraquinones.

 

 

TEST FOR SAPONINS:

1.0ml of each extract was added with 5.9ml of distilled water and heated to boil.

Appearance of creamy mist of small bubbles indicated the presences of saponins.                                  

 

TEST FOR TERPENOIDS (Salkowski Test):

1.0 ml of each extract wa mixed with 2.0 ml of chloroform and 3.0 ml of concentrated sulphuric acid was carefully added to form a layer

Reddish brown colour shows the presence of terpenoids

 

 

TEST FOR GLYCOSIDES:

0.1 ml of each extract was hydrolised with 1.0ml of 10%of HCl solution and neutralised with 1.0 ml of 0.2M  NaOH solution.

A few drops of Fehling’s solution A and B are added

Red precipitate shows presence of glycosides.

 

 

TEST FOR FLAVONOIDS:

1.0 ml of each extract was dissolved in 1.0 ml of diluted 0.2 M NaOH and 1.0 ml 10%HCl solution was added Presence of yellow coloured  turns into colourless will indicate the presence of flavonoids

 

IDENTIFICATION TEST FOR CINNAMON:

To the extract, add volatile oil and 5 ml of alcohol, to that add 1 drop of ferric chloride gives green colour This shows the presence of cinnamic aldehyde

 

 

IDENTIFICATION TEST FOR TURMERIC

Curcumin is an orange yellow crystalline powder with melting point with 183°C

 

To the extract add concentric sulphuric acid on dissolving it gives yellow colour  and on addition of NaOH ,it gives deep brown colour

 

IDENTIIFICTION TEST FOR BEET ROOT:

To the extract ,add few drops of diethyl ether will give violet colour that turns to yellow

 

 

EVALUATION OF HERBAL LIPSTICS:

Melting point:

Determination of melting point is important as it is an indication of the limit of safe storage. The melting point of formulated lipstick was determined by capillary tube method, the capillary was filled and keep in the capillary apparatus and firstly observed the product was slowly-slowly milted. After sometimes observed product was completely melted. The above procedure was done in 3 times and the melting point ratio was observed in all formulation.

 

Solubility test:

The formulation herbal lipstick was dissolved in various solvents to observe the solubility.

 

pH parameter:

The pH of formulated herbal lipstick was determined using pH meter

 

Colour:

Lip colors are products that apply color, texture, and/or shine to the lips using a brush or other applicator. Lip colors contain ingredients that apply color to the lips in a precise and controlled manner. Lip colors can also have multifunctional benefits, such as moisturizing, or may even include sunscreen for SPF protection. Lip color product safety is established by selection of ingredients that are safe and suitable for this intended use and purpose.

 

Breaking point:

Breaking point was done to determine the strength of lipstick. The lipstick was held horizontally in a socket inch away from the edge of support. The weight was gradually increased by a specific value (10 gm) at specific interval of 30 second and weight at which breaks was considered as the breaking point.

 

Force of application:

It is test for comparative measurement of the force to be applied for application. A piece of coarse brown paper kept on a shadow graph balance and lipstick was applied at 45º angle to cover a 1 sq. Inch area until fully covered. The pressure reading is an indication of force of application.

Table 10. Evaluation of formulated Herbal Lipsticks (F1-F6)

Evaluation Parameters	F1	F2	F3	F4	F5	F6
Colour	Light brown	Light pink	Yellow	Orange	Brown	Red
Solubility	Soluble in methanol	Soluble in methanol	Soluble in methanol	Soluble in methanol	Soluble in methanol	Soluble in methanol
Melting point	850 C	820C	800C	670C	620C	630C
pH	6.3+0.2	6.7+0.4	6.5+0.1	6.5+0.2	6.2+0.1	6.8+0.1
Skin Irritation	No	No	No	No	No	No
Breaking point	25	31	32	22	23	22
Force  of Application	Easy	Good	Good	Easy	Easy	Easy
Perfumed stability	+ +	+ + +	+ +	+	+ +	+ +
Surface Anomalies	No defect	No defect	No defect	No defect	No defect	No defect
Aging stability	Smooth	Smooth	Smooth	Smooth	Smooth	Smooth

 

Table 11. Evaluation of formulated Herbal Lipsticks (F7)

 

Surface anomalies:

This was studied for the surface defects, such as no formation crystals on surfaces, no contamination by moulds, fungi etc. 

 

Aging stability:

The product was stored in 40ºC for 1 hrs. Various parameters such as bleeding, crystallization of on surface and ease of application were observed.

 

Skin irritation test:

It is carried out by applying product on the skin for 10 min. 

 

Perfume stability:

The formulation herbal lipstick was tested after 30 days, to record fragrance

 

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION:

The present work formulation and evaluation of herbal lipsticks was aimed to formulate a lipstick using herbal ingredients with a hope to minimize the side effects as produced by the available synthetic ones. The prepared formulation (Table - 6.1) was evaluated (Table 6.2) and it was found that the herbal lipstick, F7 formulation containing was best among the seven formulations in terms of color and smoothness. The formulations containing carnauba wax i.e; F2 and F3 proved to be better than the rest of formulations in terms of breaking point. However the lipsticks were hard to apply in comparison to other formulations. None of  the formulations produced any skin irritation. No surface anomalies were found in any formulation. Aging stability was smooth for all the seven formulations. Perfume stability was best in F2 formulation containing rose oil among all seven formulations. F7 formulations also showed adequate perfume stability upon storage. Solubility of the prepared herbal lipsticks was checked in different solvents like methanol, ethanol, chloroform and petroleum ether. All the seven formulations were found to be soluble in methanol. Hence, from present investigation it was concluded that this formulated herbal lipsticks has better option to women with minimal side effects though a detailed clinical trials may be done to access the formulation for better efficacy.

 

CONCLUSION:

In last few decades there has been tremendous boost in use of cosmetics by women. However, the hazards cause by these chemicals has come into limelight very recently. The present work formulation and evaluation of herbal lipsticks was aimed to formulate a lipstick using herbal ingredients with a hope to minimize the side effects as produced by the available synthetic ones. Study concluded that herbal lipstick can be successfully. formulated using different natural ingredients such as Bees wax, Carnauba wax, Castor oil, Coconut oil, Olive oil, Vanilla, Strawberry and Rose essence, Cinnamon bark powder, Turmeric powder, Beetroot powder, Cocoa powder, Pomogranate juice, Carrot juice, Tomato juice, Vitamin E and lemon juice. These are better options compared to synthetic coloring agents which may cause different and hazardous side effects. Consumers can take safe and effective advantage of herbal lipsticks after thorough clinical trials.

 

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Received on 19.12.2018         Modified on 26.12.2018

Accepted on 12.01.2019         © RJPT All right reserved