A green Hibiscus
cannabinus oil emollient cream for
potential topical applications
Kaushita Banerjee1, Diana
Pearline1, Nandita Kamat1, Narayanaswamy Thiagarajan2, Padma
Thiagarajan1*
1School of Biosciences and Technology, VIT
University, Vellore, 632014, India
2Material Science Division, National
Aerospace Laboratories, Bangalore, 560017, India
*Corresponding Author E-mail: padmadk4@gmail.com
ABSTRACT:
A green emollient cream with Hibiscus cannabinus
seed oil and an alkyl polyglucoside surfactant has
been formulated. It can serve as
biological alternatives to synthetic formulations that normally incorporate
chemical constituents as surfactants and stabilizers mainly to increase
consumer compliance in terms of textural and visual aesthetics. FAME analysis
of the oil showed the presence octanoic and decanoic acids. The cream after formulation and ultrasonication, presented a smooth and soft appearance
with visual and textural appeal. It showed a mean particle size of 138 nm with
a zeta potential of -59.2 mV and an electrophoretic
mobility of -0.000459 cm2/Vs. Its SEM image projected well dispersed
oil globules in water. FTIR spectrum showed extensive hydrogen bonding.
Accelerated stability tests under conditions of freeze thawing, heating cooling
and centrifugation revealed no cracking, creaming or phase separation. Similar
results were observed during the shelf life studies. It is concluded that this Hibiscus cannabinus cream can be utilized as an emollient base for loading
cosmopharmaceutic ingredients for their topical
delivery, without any toxicity concerns, as it is formulated from completely
natural constituents.
KEYWORDS: Hibiscus cannabinus, Alkyl polyglucosides,
Emollient cream, Topical applications.
INTRODUCTION:
Hibiscus spp.,is
known for its applications in traditional medicine1. Specifically, Hibiscus cannabinus
has been pharmacologically explored for its activities as an anti-hypertensive,
anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, antidiabetic,
antioxidant and antimutagenic agent2,3.
Its constituents include limonene, phellandrene, citral, ethyl and butyl alcohol, benzene acetaldehyde,
methyl furfural and phytols that contribute to its
activity4. However, the probability of risk in its concentrated form
has posed limitations due to dose dumping, raising toxicity concerns5.
Its emulsions are used to overcome risks due to inadvertent over dosages6.
Such
emulsion formulations contain parabens, phthalates, Tweens, and Spans. These are merged with synthetic bases
like polyethylene glycol and cocamide to formulate
end products7. This enhances textural and visual aesthetics and also
to increases their stability8. However, several of them have
deleterious effects on biological systems9,10. Hence green
formulations of Hibiscus cannabinus
seed oil, that ensures minimal dermal toxicity upon topical applications is
required to exploit its full potential.
In this study, an aqueous Hibiscus cannabinus seed
oil based emollient cream has been formulated with an alkyl polyglucoside
surfactant. The smooth and creamy product has well dispersed microsized oil droplets stabilized by surfactant molecules
as evidenced from its size measurements, zeta potential, electrophoretic
mobility and SEM image. Its FTIR spectrum shows extensive hydrogen bonding. It
has a shelf life of a minimum period of 90 days at 370C and is
stable to accelerated stability tests. To best of our knowledge, an emollient
cream matrix, that can be used in base form as well as be employed for loading
active ingredients for topical delivery, has not
been reported so far.
MATERIALS AND METHODS:
Materials:
Pure Hibiscus
cannabinus oil was purchased from a
branded dealer in the local market. Alkyl polyglucoside
surfactant was procured from SEPPIC, Bangalore, India. Milli
Q water was used for the formulation.
FAME
analysis of Hibiscus cannabinus seed oil:
The
oil was esterified using methanol and sodium
hydroxide11 and subjected to GC-MS analysis (JOEL GCMATE II) using a
HP 5Ms ultra inert column with very low bleeding characteristics. Pure helium was used as a carrier gas (1ml/minute). The GC
inlet temperature was set to 2200C, and the oven temperature was ramped from 500C
to 2500C at a rate of 100C/minute. The GC interface and ion chamber temperature were both
set to 2500C. Electron Impact
ionization (70eV) mode was employed with a scan rate of 50 to 600amu. Quadruple
double focusing mass analyzer and photo multiplier tube were used and NIST
library was employed to identify the compounds.
Synthesis of Emollient cream:
Ten ml of Hibiscus
cannabinus seed oil was preheated to 500C
and 2g of powdered surfactant was dissolved in it. 30ml of water was then added
in 10ml aliquots with constant stirring. The resulting emollient cream was sonicated in an ultrasonic atomizer (Model VCX500, Sonics
and Materials, Inc., USA), for 60 minutes. During sonication, 10 ml aliquots of
water were added at 5 minute intervals till the total volume reached 100 ml.
The resulting emollient cream was exposed to UV light for 10 minutes and stored
in a brown bottle at 370C for 48 hours, before further
characterization.
Characterization studies:
Horiba Scientific SZ 100 instrument was
employed along with Windows [Z type] version 2.00software for particle size
analysis, after a one in hundred dilution. Polydispersity
index was also recorded. A 900 scattering angle and a temperature of
250C were employed. The percentage frequency of particles against
their diameter was plotted by using the software. After suitable dilutions, the
zeta potential and electrophoretic mobility were
recorded using the same instrument. The SEM image was captured with Carl Zeiss EVO 18 Research instrument. FT-IR spectra were
recorded for the oil and cream with an FT-IR Spectrophotometer (Bruker Optics, Germany) using ATR technique, between 4000
and 500cm-1. Shelf life stability was assessed by transferring about
10g of cream into a 25ml glass beaker and maintaining it at 370C for
a period of 90 days. After every 15 days, it was observed for signs of visual
destabilization like cracking, creaming and formation of oil droplets and/or
phase separation. For recording the stability, under accelerated test
conditions, 10 grams of cream were transferred into 25 ml glass beakers. They
were covered with aluminum foil and stored for of 48 hours, at 40±0.50C
for heating cycles, 5±0.50C for cooling cycles and -18±0.50C
for freeze thaw cycles. After this time interval, they was brought to 370C
and observed for any signs of destabilization as described above. All the
cycles were repeated four times and the incubation temperatures were strictly
monitored. 10g of the cream was also centrifuged for 20 minutes at 5000 rpm in
a laboratory REMI centrifuge and observed for any signs of destabilization.
RESULTS:
A simple formulation procedure was used
here. Ultrasonication was adopted as a method of
choice to break down surfactant stabilized oil droplets into microsized ones. The emollient cream was creamy with a
smooth silky feel and appearance (Figure 1). It was left undisturbed for a
period of 48 hours at 370C for attaining stability.
Figure 1: Hibiscus cannabinus emollient cream
FAME analysis of the oil using GC-MS
showed the presence of six fatty acids namely caprylic,
capric, undecylic, tridecylic, pentadecylic and
oleic acids. Their lipid numbers were further identified and their relative
percentages were recorded (Table I). The major fatty acids were substituted and
methylated octanoic and decanoic acids. Other studies have also revealed similar
compositions12.
Table 1: Fatty acid constituents of Hibiscus
cannabinus seed oil
Fatty
acid Constituents |
Lipid
number |
Relative
percentage |
Caprylic acid |
8:0 |
16.9 |
Capric acid |
10:0 |
13.4 |
Undecylic acid |
11:0 |
34.2 |
Tridecylic acid |
13:0 |
21.2 |
Pentadecylic acid |
15:0 |
9.8 |
Oleic
acid |
18:1 |
4.5 |
Mean particle size was measured after 48
hours. It was found to be 138 nm. Polydispersity
Index (PDI) was less than 0.5. Zeta potential and electrophoretic
mobility was -59.2 mV and -0.000459cm2/Vs respectively (Figures 2
and 3).
Figure 2: Particle size analysis of the
emollient cream
Figure 3: Zeta potential
analysis of the emollient cream
The SEM image of the cream is shown in
Figure 4. It can be seen that the oil droplets are well dispersed in water and
stabilized by the surfactant molecules.
Figure 4: SEM image of the emollient cream
showing surfactant stabilized oil droplets
The FTIR spectra of the oil and cream are
depicted in Figure 5 and Figure 6 respectively. The Hibiscus cannabinus seed oil
spectrum showed characteristic bands in the frequency range of 1110-1230cm-1
for its triglyceride moiety. The -CH2 bending and rocking
frequencies are shown at 1462cm-1 and 720-725cm-1 respectively.
The latter frequency is also used to determine total unsaturation
present in vegetable oil in addition to the frequency range of 2852-2954cm-1.
The band at 1741cm-1 characterizes carbonyl frequency of the
saturated fatty acids. For the surfactant, IR finger prints have been obtained
for -OH, -CH, -CH2, -CH2OR groups from alkyl polyglucoside and saturated fatty alcohols. Its spectrum
shows bands at 719.45cm-1, 1060.8cm-1, 1462.04cm-1,
1739cm-1, and 2846-2954cm-1, that correspond to C-H
rocking, C-O stretching, -C-H bending, -C=O stretching and C-H stretching with
an additional band at 3275.1cm-1. This indicates O-H stretching of alcohols.
Extensive hydrogen bonding is seen in alkyl polyglucoside
surfactant13 during and after the formation of the cream. This is
evidenced by a broad band in the range 3200-3600cm-1. Further, the
absorption band at 1641cm-1 is a finger print for O-H bending
vibration of water14.
Figure 5: FTIR spectrum of Hibiscus cannabinus seed oil
Figure 6: FTIR spectrum of the emollient
cream
The accelerated stability tests showed no
observable change in its color and texture even after a period of six months
when stored at 370C. An extended shelf life is thus validated for
this formulation. Further, there was no creaming/sedimentation, cracking,
flocculation or phase separation during the heating-cooling, freezing-thawing
and centrifugation studies. It can thus be inferred that the emollient cream is
stable to accelerated stability tests also.
DISCUSSION:
Plants
that belong to the Hibiscus genus are classified under the Malvaceae family15. Their flowers, canes,
roots and barks are incorporated in products related to food, traditional
medicine and horticulture. Their seeds are rich sources of phospholipids,
sterols, triglycerides, proteins and other natural products16. But
in spite of this, they have not been exploited to a large extent. Seed oils are
extracted from cultivated hybrid and natural varieties of the Hibiscus
species. Their oil content ranges between 8.9 and 29.8 weight percent. It has
been suggested that Hibiscus oil extracts, with this biochemical
profile, could find potential applications in cosmetic formulations17.
Wound healing properties have also been attributed to Hibiscus sabdariffa extract. It shows a synergistic effect with gentamycin when applied to wounds18. The seed
oil obtained from this variety is also a rich source of gamma tocopherols19.
Hence it has been suggested as an alternative natural antioxidant to synthetic
ones like butylated hydroxyl toluene and anisole as
the latter pose intense health hazards20. Tocopherol
being the vitamin of choice today in anti-ageing creams and formulations, it
has been envisaged that Hibiscus extracts would have tremendous
potential as a cosmetic base. It was therefore selected for the formulation of
the emollient cream in this study.
An arachidyl glucoside surfactant,
with arachidyl and behenyl
alcohol groups, has been employed to emulsify the Hibiscus cannabinus seed oil. The
surfactant is non-ionic, biocompatible, biodegradable and is of 100% vegetable
origin. It is derived from corn or manioc21and incorporates no
solvents or preservatives. It aids emulsification of oils at low concentrations
between 1 to 2% and across a wide range of pH. It
promotes growth of liquid crystals and retains the skin moisturization
for hours after the initial application. It can be used on oily as well as on
sensitive skin. It also provides an evanescence effect. It stabilizes the
formulations by obstructing the creaming and phase separations. By varying its
concentrations, emollients of optimum viscosity can be obtained. It is an ideal
choice for emulsifying Hibiscus cannabinus seed oil. Ultrasonication
was adopted as a method of choice to
homogenize the emollient cream as it aids in the break
down of surfactant stabilized oil droplets into microsized
ones. This increases the surface area for effective end applications22.
The excess surfactant molecules present in the system facilitates further
droplet stabilization by charge and steric based
mechanisms.
The
FAME analysis for the oil revealed the presence of mainly octanoic
and decanoic acids and their methyl esters. Undecanoic acid also known as undecylic
acid is anti seborrheic in nature and is a vital
constituent in treating skin infections due to Candida
albicans23. The acid very dynamically binds with the
lipid bi-layers of the cell membrane and leads to a rise in the cell fluidity
of the fungus. This eventually causes structural differences in the membrane
proteins and cytoplasm and thus leads to leakage of the intracellular
components and cell death. Among the potent antifungal fatty acids that target
the plasmalemma and amino acid synthesis are octanoates. This 8C fatty acid causes an alteration of biological function of various organelles, including
the cell nucleus, mitochondria, peroxisome,
endoplasmic reticulum, golgi apparatus, lysosome, endosome, and related
structures resulting in rapid exo-osmosis with
cell senescence24. Oleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid used for
medications of dermatomycosis caused by Trichophyton rubrum and
Epidermophyton inguinale.
The fatty acid represses the formation and elongation of hyphae in Candida albicans and
prevents its infection in the host by disturbing acyl-CoA
synthesis during lipid oxidation. Methylated fatty
acids, acquired from plant extracts, pose low environmental threats and
manifest a high degree of specificity that is likely due to the hindrance of
β-oxidation, thus increasing the half-lives of the fatty acids. This would
allow them to be inserted more efficiently into the membrane and cause
methoxylation25,26 . It has been observed that these fatty acids
present in hibiscus oil will confer it with antiarthritic,
antipyretic anti-spermicidal, diuretic, antimalarial,
antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory
and antifungal properties.
The
characterization of the emollient cream in terms of mean size, zeta potential
and electrophoretic mobility depicted a mean particle
size of 138 nm with Polydispersity Index (PDI) of
less than 0.5. An enhancement in visual appeal as well as in textural feel is a
consequence of this low particle size. The polydispersity
index ensures long term stability and protects it against mechanisms leading to
its destabilization27. Zeta potential is a measure of the extent of
charge distribution in the diffuse layer around the constituent particles. A
value of either above +30 or below -30 is considered as a reasonable cut off
for attaining stability. It was found to
be -59.2 mV and this value is excellent for retaining the particles in the
dispersed state. Zeta potential acts as an important determinant for delivery
systems and can be applied in favorable context in this study. Electrophoretic mobility depicts the movement of the oil
droplets under the influence of an electric field. In this study, the electrophoretic mobility was recorded to be -0.000459cm2/Vs
.The low value is probably due to two reasons. Surfactant induced charge
stabilization of the oil droplets is the most important reason. Tight steric packing by the individual surfactant molecules in
aqueous phase may also restrict the movement of particles. Hence,
destabilization mechanisms that are dependent on migrations of constituent
particles in standing systems, do not function effectively here. Long term
stability of the emollient cream is thus ensured. Its SEM image depicted
effectively distributed water molecules around the oil molecules with glucosides acting as a link between the two thus conferring
stability to the oil particles against aggregation.
IR spectroscopy plays an important role in
the identification and analysis of plant based oils28.The -CH2 bending
and rocking frequencies determines total unsaturation
present in vegetable oil. The IR finger prints from alkyl polyglucoside
correspond to C-H rocking, C-O stretching, -C-H bending, -C=O stretching and
C-H stretching at 719.45cm-1,
1060.8cm-1, 1462.04cm-1, 1739cm-1, and
2846-2954cm-1 respectively. Due to the higher cloud point of the
alkyl polyglucosides, extensive hydrogen bonding is
seen when compared to classical polyethoxylated
surfactants13during and after the formation of the emollient cream
(Figure 6).
The cream was stable to creaming,
aggregation, flocculation, coalescence and phase separation. It had a shelf
life for a minimum period of 90 days at 370C validating the fact
that that it can used for this extended period of time without destabilization.
CONCLUSIONS:
A green emollient cream,
formulated from Hibiscus cannabinus seed oil and alkyl polyglucoside surfactant, is proposed as a topical matrix
in this study. The formulation protocol is simple, and the small sized oil
globules are well stabilized by the surfactant molecules as evidenced from its
zeta potential values, electrophoretic mobility
studies and SEM image. It is stable for a minimum period of 90 days and it
withstands accelerated stability tests also. It can hence be employed as such
or as a base matrix for loading active pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical
ingredients for their delivery by topical application.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
We thank the Management of VIT University,
Vellore for providing the facilities for this research. We also thank DST-FIST,
Government of India for the SEM facility.
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Received on 22.04.2016
Modified on 20.04.2016
Accepted on 10.05.2016 ©
RJPT All right reserved
Research J. Pharm. and Tech.
2016; 9(6):735-740
DOI: 10.5958/0974-360X.2016.00140.2